When discussing natural leather vs. synthetic leather, life cycle analysis is important to understand which of these choices is the most sustainable. Especially when we consider that this product is used in various industries, such as the furniture, footwear and automotive industries.
In a world where sustainability is becoming increasingly essential, the choice of materials used in everyday life is becoming even more important. One of the points that stands out is whether the most sustainable choice for producing durable goods is natural leather vs. synthetic leather.
The debate revolves around whether imitation leather is more economical, ethical and "sustainable", as it is misleadingly advertised. This phenomenon of promoting products as eco-friendly, when in reality they are not, is known as greenwashing.
A concept that has been gaining prominence because it refers to deceptive practices where products or companies present themselves as more ecological than they really are, in order to attract an environmentally conscious public without having to worry about adopting truly sustainable practices.
Even the well-known term "synthetic leather" is considered incorrect because, technically, leather is a natural material obtained from the skin of animals, mainly cattle, which undergoes a tanning process to become durable and usable in various products. The use of the term "leather" implies that the material comes from an animal source.
When we talk about "synthetic leather", we are referring to materials that imitate the appearance and texture of leather, but are made from chemical substances such as PU or PVC. These materials do not originate from animal skins and therefore should not be called leather. In Brazil, the misuse of the term "leather" for synthetic materials is at odds with legislation, which prohibits the use of the word "leather" to designate products that do not originate from animal skins.
Real leather is widely valued for its durability and longevity, which is not the case with synthetic material which has a much shorter lifespan, usually less than 5 years, and contrary to what many people think, bovine slaughter is not done for the purpose of obtaining leather.
In fact, 99% of the natural leather used is a by-product of the protein, meat and milk food industry. Reusing these hides, which would otherwise be discarded, prevents the waste of 270 million hides annually, which is equivalent to 7.5 million tons of waste.
In contrast, the production of imitation leather involves the use of large amounts of energy and non-renewable resources, generating a product that will last from 2 to 10 years, taking more than 500 years to complete its life cycle.
Let's learn more about the life cycle of natural leather vs. synthetic leather:
Leather
Leathermaking is one of the oldest practices known to man, and the beginnings of the industry go back a long way. It is estimated that the first tanning recipe appeared around 700 BC and the first leatherworking tools date back to 5,000 BC.
At that time, leather was already used to protect against the elements, in a more rustic process.
It follows a life cycle that is intrinsically linked to sustainability, especially when compared to imitation leather. Understand this process better from the outset:
Origin
Leather is a by-product of the food industry. Animals such as cattle are raised primarily for meat and dairy production.
The skins of these animals, which would otherwise be discarded as harmful waste because they produce methane gas, are reused as raw material and transformed into leather, a natural material with a biogenic carbon count of over 80%, thus promoting sustainability within the production chain.
It's important to make a distinction between skin and leather, because skins are still complex organs and will only become leather after going through the tanning process.
Guttering and Tanning
But before reaching the tannery, the skin needs to be degreased and rehumidified, eliminating fat, impurities and intrafibrillar water. After this cleaning, it is the tannery's responsibility to do the decarne.
During this process, water and energy are used efficiently and responsibly. Durli Leathers is concerned about sustainability and in order to minimize environmental impacts, an 80% reduction in the volume of water used in processes has been achieved, 35% through recycling and 45% with the introduction of more modern processes and equipment.
At Durli, when we reach this point, the fresh leather is processed in multi-action drums, where the liming, tanning and retanning stages take place. This equipment increases leather production by 25%.
Draping is the process in which the epidermal layer and hair are removed from the skin and controlled swelling is carried out to clean the interfibrils and prepare for the next processes.
In decarne, fat is removed from the hypodermis and recycled into hygiene and cleaning products.
Stripping is the process that comes after removing alkalinity and lime, so that the hides can be passed on to the tanning process, which is essential for stabilizing the hides. This process is carried out so that the hides can be prepared for tanning. At this stage, the hides are also subjected to a chemical treatment with enzymes.
It then goes through the nickel process, where the hides are acidified for the tanning agents to penetrate.
Tanning is a chemical or vegetable process that preserves leather, preventing it from rotting and giving the material strength and durability. Normally the products used for tanning are chromium sulphate, vegetable or synthetic tannins and glutaraldehyde, and fungicides are often addedto prevent mold.
Tanning agents act on collagen, which is essential for the structure of leather, contributing to its strength and durability.
Throughout these stages, Durli relies on an efficient conveyor system that minimizes diesel consumption and consequently CO2 emissions.
The first tanning process produces wet blue leather, and in order to achieve the specified characteristics, such as softness, color, thickness and feel, the retanning process produces crust leather.
Drying
After the drying and stretching processes to remove excess moisture and open up the fibers, the leather goes through vacuum pre-drying equipment, which is responsible for reducing the percentage of moisture.
Drying can be done on natural air or in high-tech, energy-efficient equipment such as the LTD stationary dryer, the most modern radiofrequency drying equipment and the highly productive TAIC system. This produces the leather that will be supplied to the furniture, footwear and automotive industries.
Throughout this process, Durli Leathers ensures that water and energy are used efficiently, that greenhouse gas emissions are reduced and that 100% of waste and effluents are treated and disposed of properly.
Durability
Natural leather products, when well cared for, can last for decades, reducing the need for frequent replacements and, consequently, the generation of waste, as well as being recyclable. This is why they are recognized for their durability and longevity, resisting wear and tear, as well as their softness and elegant, timeless aesthetic.
According to Is it Leather, it is possible for leather to last 50 to 100 years, and when it comes time to complete its life cycle, leather decomposes in 25 to 45 years in the environment, and in 10 to 15 years in landfills, returning to nature the nutrients essential for plant growth.
Even after the leather product has reached the end of its useful life, it can be repurposed through upcycling or recycling.
Upcycling is the process of transforming waste such as leather offcuts and scraps that would otherwise be discarded or used products originally made from leather into new materials or products of greater value, usefulness or quality.
Unlike recycling, which often breaks materials down into their basic forms to be reused, upcycling maintains the integrity of the original material, creating something new and useful without the need to completely dismantle it. This results in a lower environmental impact and promotes sustainability by reducing waste and the consumption of new resources.
Upcycling in the natural leather sector is a fundamental practice for completing the life cycle of this material. After many years of use and eventual repair, leather can also be used for two other purposes: recycling or composting.
Leather recycling involves transforming leather waste into new materials or useful products. This process can include shredding waste leather to create new reconstituted leather products or using leftover leather in new designs, thus reducing waste and promoting sustainability.
Leather recycling helps to reduce the environmental impact associated with the disposal of leather waste and the production of new materials. When recycled, new products can emerge, opening up new sources of income, which contributes not only to sustainability, but also to the circular economy.
And through composting, leather contributes to the regenerative cycle by enriching the soil, which stimulates the growth of grass for livestock, re-entering the life cycle and starting the process all over again.
Imitation Leather
Synthetic leather", "vegan leather" or "eco-leather" is an artificial material created to resemble natural leather. The production of imitation leather uses non-renewable raw materials, fossil fuels and is made from PU (polyurethane) or PVC (polyvinyl chloride). Even when the material is plant-based, such as mushrooms and pineapple peels, it is mixed with PU or PVC in the order of 80 to 90% of the total to form the composite material. These plastic materials contribute to water pollution and increased carbon emissions.
Imitation leather, despite being more affordable, results from an expensive manufacturing process that consumes a lot of non-renewable resources. This process is often not optimized for sustainability, resulting in a greater environmental impact.
The production of "synthetic leather" uses chemical substances and plastics derived from petroleum, which contribute significantly to pollution and environmental degradation throughout its life cycle.
A2019 study points out that the "synthetic leather" industry is one of the most polluting in China, since a large part of this product comes from that country. It also concludes that the production of this material puts the health of factory workers at risk.
Because of the production of this type of product, the result is a less breathable material, especially on hot days, which can cause discomfort.
In addition, its durability is significantly lower than that of real leather, and it is susceptible to cracking, peeling, losing its shape and wearing out quickly. This lower resistance and quality means that imitation leather has a reduced lifespan, requiring more frequent replacement.
When comparing natural leather and synthetic leather, durability is put to the test, as natural leather can last more than 50 years, while synthetic leather has a short lifespan, from 2 to 10 years, depending on where it comes from.
And we can't forget to mention the huge environmental impact of disposal, because not only does imitation leather only last a short time, it can also take up to 500 years to decompose in a landfill.
The disposal of "synthetic leather" presents significant environmental challenges, mainly due to the release of microplastics. When this imitation leather, made predominantly of PVC or PU, is discarded, it does not degrade easily in the environment, and in its decomposition it releases toxic and harmful chemicals over time.
After this process, it fragments into tiny particles known as microplastics, which persist in the environment for hundreds of years.
These microplastics can be transported to waterways and oceans, where they contribute to marine pollution and can be ingested by aquatic organisms, accumulating in the food chain and potentially affecting human health and biodiversity. A major villain against sustainability, the environment, our health and that of animals.
In the article Leather and the Reduction of Marine Pollution, data from an article by SEBRAE-SP is cited, showing how harmful microplastics can be, especially to our oceans. See some of the data mentioned:
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- By 2050 there will be more plastic in the oceans than fish;
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- 91% of the plastic used in the world is not recyclable;
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- Plastic is responsible for the deaths of 100,000 marine animals every year.
According to research by the US National Institute of Health (NIH), an estimated 13 million tons of synthetic fibers enter our oceans every day.
What's the Right Choice: Real Leather vs. Fake Leather?
In the debate about sustainability and durability between natural leather and synthetic leather, the choice is clear. Natural leather stands out for its durability, superior aesthetics and much lower environmental impact. As a by-product of the food industry and an organic material, leather naturally biodegrades in the soil to complete its life cycle without leaving a trace, as well as contributing to the circular economy.
Leather is the Sustainable Choice
At Durli Leathers, our commitment goes beyond quality. We prioritize sustainability, respect for nature, meticulous care with specifications and excellence in the production of natural leather. We follow responsible production based on ESG criteria and are LWG Gold certified in all 10 of our units.
With our raw material purchasing policy and our system of complete and individual traceability from indirect suppliers, we guarantee that our leather is free from deforestation. We value tradition and technology that generates efficiency in the use of resources. And so we make every piece of Durli leather a reflection of our dedication and respect for the environment.
Contact us and see for yourself why Durli leather is the right choice for a more sustainable future.
Sources:
https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/life-cycle-assessments-synthetic-materials-natural-like-tegtmeyer/
https://isitleather.com/learn/benefits-of-real-leather/
https://isitleather.com/learn/did-you-know/
https://isitleather.com/learn/sustainable-leather-production/
https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/avoid-microplastics-choose-leather-dietrich-tegtmeyer/
https://www.gazetadigital.com.br/suplementos/terra-e-criacao/etapas-do-curtimento-da-pele/137972
https://isitleather.com/blog/fake-vs-real-leather-guide/
https://www.leathernaturally.org/resources/fact-sheets/leather-is-a-recycled-material/
https://one4leather.com/article/Leather-the-ultimate-upcycled-material/